7.6 questions

1. The breakwaters of the Tweed River entrance began to buildup with sand which spilled into the entrance. The short term fix was to extend the breakwater.
2. The longshore drift across the river opening could not have replenished the beaches after severe erosion
3. The longshore drift had caused sand to begin to settle over the river mouth as a sandbar preventing ships entering the river
4. The dredging of the river was one of many short term solution others could have included extending the breakwater again, widening and deepening the opening and building a proper port entrance
5. It takes the sand building up on oneside of the breakwater and pumps it across to the other side so the natural process of longshore drift can continue.
6. The TRESB project allows an almost complete recreation of the natural process of longshore drift which prevents erosion on beaches and the blocking of the river mouth. This to me proves it's success as a strategy
7.

 8. In 1962 Durubah beach the right side of the beach droops into the river opening and shallow water is visible around the opening. In 1969 the beach no longer droops at one end and is wider, the breakwater has cleared the opening and no shallow water is visible in the opening. In 1994 the beach is much wider, the waves are larger. The opening is clear and plants meant to stabilise the sand dunes are visible.
9. The break water was probably 50m in 1962 and 250m in 1994.

TRESB project

In the 1950s the Tweed River entrance on thge southern Gold Coast began to close up from sand deposition. This caused a problem to the ships entering and leaving the port. In 1962 the government built breakwaters either side of the entrance to stop this build up. This short term solution was already showing weaknesses in 1965 when they had to extend it further. This would prove a bad mistake.

the Tweed River entrance

The breakwaters stopped the process of longshore drift cuasing buildup on the breakwater which would then extend past the barriers increasing the speed of the entrance silting up. The breakwater solution was not a viable one and the entrance had to be continually dredged to stop it from clogging up. This was an expensive solution and a new long term solution was needed.

The Tweed River Entrance Sand Bypassing Project was started in an attempt to stop the buildup of sand on the breakwater and transfer it to the beach beyond the entrance to the river. This is done by pumping sand from the breakwater, under the Tweed River and back out and onto the beach. In March 2001 it was operational.

One critiscism of the project is that the beaches of the Gold Coast are now much wider and that the legendary break at Kirra beach has now completely dissapeared. It is said that the beaches will return to their natural state in a few years. It is still a negative effect for the surfing community in the area but is still considered a success by the government in allowing shipping from free access to the port.

Waves

Pre-viewing
1. Ocean waves are normally started by wind blowing up big swells though they can also be caused by currents and the tide

2. how to use a surfboard and what to do when your stuck in a rip

Questions for video
1. Most of the waves and especially Mavericks are spilling breakers that cause barrels and are liked by surfers.

2. Most waves are formed by winds out at see which then transfer the energy as swells. They are normally measured by wave hight, period and wave length.

3. The Maverick wave is formed when the wind blows waves to shore at a certain angle so they go over the extremely shallow reef shelf causing the wave to pop up, losing minimal energy.

4. The energy in a wave is stored by circular motions in the wave that continue down to the ocaean floor. When the wave hits shallow water that energy is then forced up causing a wave.

5. Respect the wave and try and grab a ride before it crashes on top of you.

Qiantang Tidal Bore

The Quiantang tidal bore has the Guiness world Record for the worlds largest tidal bore. It has been known to reach up 8.9m in hight and speeds up to 4km/h. Tidal Bores are becoming more popular among the surfing community as they are very large and can go up rivers up to 10km. Tidal bores are made by the tide when the moon is in the best position. It is celebrated locally during the Tidal Bore watching festival on the 18th day of the Chinese Lunar Calender.

7.4

1. 85% of Australians live within 50km of the coast meaning that they are constantly being used by our population.
2. So the population may continually use the coasts for recreation and business (ie. Tourism)
3. It is a common belief that to move to the sea from inland results in a more relaxing away from crazy cities. This is known as sea change.
4. Small towns on the coast who have had large amounts of people move there from the cities have set residential caps so as to stop overdevelopment.
5. -
6. Pollution affects are coasts in the form of storm drains washing rubbish and chemicals not far enough into the ocean so that they can be blown back onto our coastlines.
7. Development to close to sand dunes can cause increased erosion of the sand dunes and beach.
8. Over usage of the beach can cause sand degradation and destabilisation of the dunes causing increased erosion and less beach
9. Introduced plants used to stabilize sand dunes can overtake natives and not have the same stabilizing effect
6. Geographers discover the best way to help balance protecting coastlines and the viewpoints of others who want to develop or use it for activities such as boating so they can be continually used by the population.

Inception real life