Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Waves

Pre-viewing
1. Ocean waves are normally started by wind blowing up big swells though they can also be caused by currents and the tide

2. how to use a surfboard and what to do when your stuck in a rip

Questions for video
1. Most of the waves and especially Mavericks are spilling breakers that cause barrels and are liked by surfers.

2. Most waves are formed by winds out at see which then transfer the energy as swells. They are normally measured by wave hight, period and wave length.

3. The Maverick wave is formed when the wind blows waves to shore at a certain angle so they go over the extremely shallow reef shelf causing the wave to pop up, losing minimal energy.

4. The energy in a wave is stored by circular motions in the wave that continue down to the ocaean floor. When the wave hits shallow water that energy is then forced up causing a wave.

5. Respect the wave and try and grab a ride before it crashes on top of you.

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